Colorado



Final Day

The final day of our 17-day Canyon Country trip started with the best Crested Butte breakfasts. McGill’s is located downtown on Elk Avenue.

 

I selected one slice of French toast and sausage patties. McGill’s French toast is dipped in cinnamon sugar before going on the grill. The sweet, crisp crust is perfect. The thick cut pieces makes the one slice serving all I could handle.

 

Eric ordered the breakfast tacos served with hash browns. The tacos looked terrific and I noticed they disappeared even more quickly than my French toast.

We headed to Denver via Cottonwood Pass, while we’re use to the 14-miles of gravel road on the west side of the pass we didn’t know that miles of the road east of Harmel’s Resort  is under major construction this summer. Delays were not an issue since this was Sunday but the rough, dusty, slow surface would make us consider the longer Monarch Pass route this summer.

 

Cloudy skies and a few sprinkles accompanied us all the way to Buena Vista. We decided to make a side trip to St. Elmo 20 miles southwest of Buena Vista. On the National Register of Historic Places St. Elmo is known as one of Colorado’s best preserved ghost towns. Founded in 1880, the town grew to 2000 residents – mostly gold and silver miners.

Cortez to Crested Butte

We trade high desert for mountain vistas as we drive from Cortez to Crested Butte in the heart of Colorado. The morning is cloudy with scattered rain showers, while we never get rained on we often have wet pavement. Makes for poor photo ops but speedier travel since the scenic drive would require frequent picture stops under sunny skies. We especially enjoy the thick green forest, jagged mountain peaks and alpine lakes.

 

From Cortez we follow the San Juan Scenic Byway along the Dolores River, up Lizard Head Pass, to Telluride and across the Dallas Divide to Ridgway. After lunch at Kate’s Place we leaved  the Scenic Byway heading north to Montrose. It appears Montrose has grown up since our last visit, we’re surprised at all the new businesses both national retail stores and local enterprises.

 

US50 takes us to Gunnison where we turn north for Crested Butte. It’s still off-season in “The Butte”. In a  couple more weeks summer adventurers will keep the area hoppin’ until mid-September. The Grand Lodge is open but extremely quiet – translate, great rates.

 

A visit with Eric and a family-style chicken dinner at Slogar’s fills the evening. I’m especially grateful for the two hour tutorial on my new laptop.

Winding Down

Travel can be hard work with the busy agendas we try to keep. After a couple of weeks we will both admit to wearing down, moving slower and accomplishing less each day. We have explored:

  • 6 National Parks

  • 7 National Monuments

  • 1 National Recreation Area

  • 1 Tribal Park

  • 1 State Park

In addition to numerous trails, backroads, museums, restaurants and trading posts.

 

Today’s itinerary included two National Monuments. Our first stop was Hovenweep NM on the Utah/Colorado border, the site of six pre-historic villages perched on canyon rims or balanced on massive boulders. I’ve always been fascinated with the intricate masonry.

 

We also visited Canyons of the Ancients National Monument which encompasses a large area in the southwestern corner of Colorado. Located within the monument are literally thousands of archeological sites. Most have not been excavated and appear only as rubble heaps. The most accessible of the sites is Lowry Pueblo housing 8 kivas (circular ceremonial rooms), 40 rooms and a Great Kiva.

The Anasazi Heritage Center, 10 miles north of Cortez, is the best place to start a Canyons of the Ancients visit. The AHC contains interactive exhibits, artifacts from excavations, galleries for temporary exhibits, a theatre showing two introductory films, and a gift shop. We found detailed information on sites to visit within the monument including a one-mile interpretive trail to Escalante Pueblo.

Vance Johnson’s Outlaw Ribbs

Parachute, Colorado

If you cheered for the Denver Broncos twenty years ago you remember the most flamboyant of the Three Amigos – Vance Johnson.  Wide receiver Johnson played from 1985-1995. A few years ago a friend told us about a good barbecue restaurant on Colorado’s Western Slope in the small town of Parachute. Since the friend was a Kansas City native we figured he had a credible recommendation. Since then we’ve stopped several times for lunch at VJ’s Outlaw Ribbs.

 

I don’t think we would have ever paid attention to the unassuming building right along Interstate 70 but now we know to turn off at Exit 75. VJ’s opens for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Today’s breakfast special was a jumbo smoked sausage, 2 eggs, home fries and toast. Besides the typical breakfast fare selections include Toby’s Burrito, a Denver Omelet, grits and bone-in ham slice.

 

The lunch special was pure southern – catfish platter with blackened peas, rice, collard greens and cornbread. I note most of the locals were indulging in the special. I bypass the catfish for a shredded smoked pork sandwich with their basic barbecue sauce and a side of beans. Bob opted for the pulled pork on bun – Southern style (hot and spicy) topped with coleslaw. There is also a tangy barbecue sauce.

 

If you’re with a group order “The Trough” which VJ’s promises to feed four or more. There’s baby back ribs, St. Louis ribs, smoked sausage, pork, brisket, whole chicken, 6 sides and garlic toast. Pull up a chair and dig in.

 

Fresh cut prime rib is on this weekend’s special board plus live 70s music on the patio. Every time we’ve stopped at VJ’s locals greatly outnumber the tourists. There seems to be a loyal following of gas and oil field workers, ranchers with their brand on their license plate and those just shooting’ the breeze. I’m happy we didn’t just breeze on by.

Across Colorado

Well supplied with bottled water, sunscreen, cameras and maps we head west for a couple of weeks exploring Southern Utah and Northern Arizona. Six national parks and at least as many National Monuments  and State Parks are on the itinerary. We’re expecting lots of outdoor time and photography amid the ingredible natural landscapes found on the Colorado Plateau.

 

Following I-70 we past through towns worthy of attention and exploration on another day: Idaho Springs, Georgetown, Silver Plume, Frisco, Vail, Eagle, No Name (yes, that’s the official name), Glenwood Springs, New Castle, Silt, Rifle, Palisade. Off ramps and side roads call us to follow to other destinations: Evergreen, Empire, Guanilla Pass, Leadville, Steamboat Springs, Aspen, Grand Mesa. Visiting each of these sites would make an excellent summer adventure. We could choose to tour the Argo Mine, hike up Herman’s Gulch or to Hanging Lake, boat on Lake Dillon, backpack in the Gore-Eagle Widerness Area, raft the Eagle River, flyfish on the Colorado, soak at Glenwood Hot Springs or go underground at Glenwood Caverns. Loveland, Cooper Mountain and Vail ski areas are morphing from snow covered to green slopes for mountain biking. Active summertime in the Rockies is almost here.

 

Under cloudy skies we stick to the road with only a lunch stop in Parachute at VJs Outlaw Ribbs. VJ is Vance Johnson, a popular Denver Bronco wide receiver between 1985-1995. The shredded smoked pork sandwich satisfies the travelers hunger.

 

Reaching Grand Junction by mid-afternoon we make our first stop my favorite shoe store in the entire state, and the oldest one – Benjes. The family owned store celebrated 100 years in 2011. There’s nothing old or dated about the footwear Bruce Benje selects for his shop. Today I select sturdy Keen trail sandals expecting to put them to good use in Utah.

Corn, Covered Wagons and County Fairs

CB Art Festival Street Scene -

38th Annual Vettes on the RockiesAugust 4-7, Breckenridege. Corvette lovers gather for four days of events including autocross, self-guided mountain tours, and pit crew challenge ending with a Sunday Show-N-Shine of 350 Corvettes on Frisco’s Main Street.

Douglas County Fair & RodeoAugust 4-7, Castle Rock. All one expects from a county fair with 4H, FFA and culinary competitions, carnival, live bands, livestock sale plus PRCA rodeos and bull riding.

Teller County FairAugust 3-7. Cripple Creek. Livestock and 4-H judging, rough stock rodeo, equipment rodeo, ATV barrel racing, demolition derby and Sunday cowboy church.

Last Steep and Art Festival - B39th Annual Crested Butte Art FestivalAugust 6&7, Crested Butte. Elk avenue turns into an art gallery with 175 visual artists’ booths. Artist and chef demonstrations, live entertainment, children’s activities and and an art auction fill the weekend.

Covered Wagon DaysAugust 4-7, Del Norte. Talent show, pancake breakfast, parade, kids games, live music, beer garden, mud volley ball, horseshoe tournament, airport fly-in and mud runs.

5th Annual Colorado Rocky Mountain Bicycle TourAugust 7-13, Grand Junction. Cyclers set off Sunday morning for a weeklong, 493 mile ride through the Colorado Rockies. Event ends August 13th back in Grand Junction.

High Plains ChautauquaAugust 2-6, Greeley. An unique blend of theatre, history and humanities at a living history festival under a big tent in the tradition of early 20th-century Chautauquas. FREE.

Adams County FairAugust 3-7, Henderson. In addition to the typical county fair activities there’s a BMX stunt team, demo derby, fireworks, petting zoo and appearances by the Weinermobile and the Denver Bronco cheerleaders celebrating 107 years of Adams County.

15th Annual Bluegrass & Beer Festival – August 6&7, Keystone. Three stages of mountain bluegrass accompanied by over 40 frothy brews and down-home cooking.

Leadville Boom Days & International Pack Burro RaceAugust 5-7, Leadville. Celebrate Leadville’s heritage with mining competitions, craft fair, live entertainment and a 21-mile pack burro race.

Olathe Sweet Corn Festival – August 5&6, Olathe. Thousands celebrate the hometown crop of sweet corn at the popular family festival.

3rd Annual West Elk Wine TrailAugust 5-7, Paonia. Nine wineries in the West Elk Viticultural Area open their doors for wine tasting and food parings feature ingredients grown in Western Colorado. Tour vineyards, wineries, orchards and gardens located along the North Fork of the Gunnison River near Paonia and Hotchkiss.

Steamboat Wine Festival – August 5-7, Steamboat Springs.Wine takes the spotlight in classrooms and restaurants, on the mountain and around town with a multitude of ticketed events.

Steamboat Mountain - B

35th Annual Telluride Jazz Weekend – August 5-7, Telluride. World class jazz comes to Telluride featuring classic, mainstream, blues, Brazilian, African and Latin genres. Daytime session on outdoor stages with night time performances in historic concert halls and intimate clubs.

26 Annual Mountain Arts Festival – August 6&7, Woodland Park. More than 75 vendors stage an outdoor fine art fail at the Ute Pass Cultural Center.

Art at CBAF

Weekend To Do

Store Fronts Breckenridge - B

Breckenridge Main Street Art Festival July 29 – 31, Breckenridge.

Collegiate Peaks Music Festival – July 28 – 30, Buena Vista.

40th Annual Carbondale Mountain Fair – July 29 –31, Carbondale.

Rocky Mountain State Games – July 29 – 31, Colorado Springs. More than 10,000 athletes compete in over 34 sports.

Crowley County Days – July 30 & 31, Ordway.

Colorado Dragon Boat Festival – July 30 & 31, Denver.

Denver County Fair – July 28 – 31, Denver. First ever, held at National Western Complex.

76th Annual Durango Fiesta Days –July 27 – 31, Durango.

Evergreen Jazz Festival – July 29 – 31, Evergreen..

Dinosaur Days – July 29 & 30, Fruita.

Golden Arch

Buffalo Bill Days – July 28 – 31, Golden.

Arts Picnic – July 30 & 31, Greeley.

Weld County Fair – July 27 – August 1, Greeley.

San Ignacio Fiesta – July 30 & 31, Ignacio.

Colorado Renaissance Festival – July 30 & 31, Larkspur. Last weekend for the 2011 festival.

National Little Britches Final Rodeo – July 25 –30, Pueblo.

Vail International Dance Festival – July 31 – August 13, Vail.

Crankworx Colorado – July 28 – 31, Winter Park.

Wray Daze – July 28 – 31, Wray.

Mountain Range and Fence - B

 

Fourteen For Fun

This summer Colorado weekend brings county fairs, wine, tea, cherry pies and music –Americana, Celtic, jazz. Wherever in the state you are join the fun.

Eric's Field of Columbines - B

**Aspen Arts Festival – July 23&24, Aspen

**Arapahoe County Fair – July 20-24, Aurora.

**Rocky Mountain Tea Festival – July 23&24, Boulder.

**El Paso County Fair – July 23-30, Calhan

**Celtic Weekend – July 23&24, Canon City.

**Castle Rock Wine Fest – July 23, Castle Rock

**Wine and Food Festival – July 21-24, Crested Butte.

**Fiesta Days – July 23-31, Durango.

**Eagle County Fair & Rodeo – July 23-30, Eagle.

**Mesa County Fair – July 19-23, Grand Junction.

**Cherry Pie Festival – July 23, Loveland.

**Americana Music Weekend – July 20-23, Telluride.

**Alpine Artaffair – July 23&24, Winter Park.

**Winter Park Jazz  – July 23&24, Winter Park.

Eric's Kids on Log - B

Photos courtesy of Eric Yackel.

Colorado Weekend – Twenty To Do

July 15 – 17, 2011

***Kidspree – July 16 & 17, Aurora. Colorado’s largest outdoor festival just for kids. Entertainers plus more than 50 hands-on activities at the 16th annual Kidspree held at Bicentennial Park. Admission and activities are FREE.

***Open Arts Fest – July 16 & 17, Boulder. Visual art showcase for local artists and those from around the country, and demonstrations. Held on the Pearl Street Mall.

***Breckenridge Beer Festival – July 16, Breckenridge. Rain or shine celebrate brews and views  accompanied by live music.

***Cheyenne Wells Tumbleweed Festival – July 16 & 17, Cheyenne Wells. Softball, horseshoe and golf tournaments, games, car show, and rocky mountain oyster fry.

***Pikes Peak or Bust Rodeo Days – July 12 – 16, Colorado Springs. The 71st annual PPoBR kicks off with a parade through downtown on Tuesday. Rodeos begin on Wednesday evening. Family-friendly pre-rodeo events – gold panning trick roper demos, pony rides and mechanical bull rides. Nightly live music at the Coors Roadhouse Saloon after the rodeo.

Blue Columbine

***Crested Butte Wild Flower Festival - July 11 – 17, Crested Butte. Enjoy a rich variety of wildflowers and butterflies while hiking, birding, biking or 4×4 touring. Classes include art, gardening all levels of photograph, medicinal with botanical ingredients, cooking with wild flowers and yoga.

***Colorado Black Arts Festival July 15 – 17, Denver. The 25th annual celebration of visual, literary and performing black arts and culture. All events are free and open to the public – film, drum and drill team exhibitions, Boogaloo parade, marketplace, entertainment – at Denver City Park West.

***Molly’s Birthday Jubilee – July 17, Denver. Celebrate the 144th birthday of the “Unsinkable Molly Brown” at the Molly Brown House Museum. Enjoy a Victorian afternoon with lawn games, kids’ activities, birthday cake and free Blue Bell ice cream.

***Orthodox Food Festival and Old Globeville Days – July 16 & 17, Denver. Sample foods from Russia, Romania, Serbia, Ukraine, Eritrea, Greece and Mexico at the 8th annual festival in Argo Park. Includes music, dance, arts, tours of historical landmark Orthodox church.

***Estes Park Rooftop Rodeo – July 12 – 17, Estes Park. 85th annual PRCA rodeo includes saddle bronc riding, steer wrestling, bare-back and bull riding and barrel racing. Western parade, Behind the Chutes Tours, kids complete in mutton bustin’ and calf catch.

***Fort Collins Jazz Experience – Fort Collins, July 12 – 16. Downtown Sessions Free Festival Day – July 16th with 13 live jazz groups on two stages. Jam sessions, numerous venues, crawfish boil – and more.

***Buffalo BBQ Weekend – July 16 & 17, Grand Lake. Celebrate Grand Lake’s cowboy and pioneering heritage with pancake breakfast, 5k fun run, parade, barn dance and, of course, farm raised buffalo BBQ.

***Cattlemen Days – Through July 17, Gunnison. Ten days of events wrap-up with a parade, rodeo, cowboy church and Family Night Rodeo.

***Longmont Jazz Festival – July 16 & 17, Longmont. The best jazz bands of Northern Colorado, including the Queen City Jazz Band, entertain for a free weekend of music at Roosevelt Park. Refreshment by Smoke Shack BBQ.

***Pagosa Springs Renaissance and Pirate Festival July 15 – 17, Pagosa Springs. Events include archery, belly dancing, sword making, mysticism and activities for the wee ones. Feast on turkey legs and ale.

***Colorado Lavender Festival – July 15 – 17, Palisade. Lavender gardens, farm tours, wine reception, lavender lunch, seminars, aromatherapy, lavender wands and wreaths craft projects, kid activities, music.

***Logger Days Festival – July 16 & 17, South Fork. Men and women competitions in logging skills – axe throw, wood chop, choker race, cross cut, accuracy fall for example. Also music, wood carving, children’s games, arts & crafts and food at this family friendly weekend.

***High Country Kitchen and Garden Tour – July 16, Steamboat Springs. Event benefits the Strings Music Festival, tour 5 kitchens and 6 high altitude gardens, 9:30am-3:30pm.

***Telluride Yoga Festival – July 14 – 17 Telluride. For all levels – yoga from beginners to advanced students, workshops, meditations and yoga dance presentation.

***Sol Shine Music Festival – July 16 & 17, Winter Park. Free festival presenting national, regional and local musicians, food & beer garden. Events in Hideaway Park on Saturday and Cooper Creek Square on Sunday.

Black Forest Disappointment

Black Forest Exterior - B

I really, really wanted to like the Black Forest Restaurant in Nederland. Sadly, reality during a recent visit makes me admit that the food was a huge disappointment and both the service and ambience could use some spiffing up.

The Black Forest opened in the quiet mining town of Black Hawk in 1959 and successfully continued in that location for 42 years. When gambling arrived in Black Hawk the property gave way to a casino. Wilhelm Lorenz built a new restaurant 11 miles north in Nederland, the Black Forest home since 2000.

I think the large building has an Old World feel, as if picked up somewhere in the Alps and re-deposited in the Colorado Rockies. The Garden Room with an indoor waterfall and greenery looks toward the Continental Divide. With aspen trees immediately outside the Black Forest Waterfall - Bwindows the booths around the edge of the room almost feel like sitting in a tree house. The Hunting Room offers a more formal location for evening dining. The large Lounge must be a busy location after the nearby ski lifts close during the season.

We stopped for an early lunch the day after a busy holiday weekend; therefore, I will cut them a little slack. Some of my disappointment could be caused by shortages. Our waitress apologized for disappearing midway through our lunch saying, “They sent me to the store.” A waiter did pick up her duties while she was gone.

I ordered wiener schnitzel which the menu clearly states is a veal cutlet. I’m not an authority but would swear my blackened (not blackened in the Cajun sense but in the too long on the grill sense) meat was pork. I’ve never seen veal of that texture. The red cabbage could well have been out of a jar, nothing special or homemade in the taste. Ditto with the German potato salad, which was served cold. The bread was definitely a store bought multi-grain just like the loaf on our kitchen counter at home. Something’s wrong when the best dish of the meal is an iceberg lettuce salad with one cucumber slice and two grape tomatoes. The red onion vinaigrette dressing was nicely balanced.

Black Forest Interior - BBob found his sauerbraten acceptable. But, he’s pretty easily pleased. His potato pancake had been on the grill with my meat – too long. We had no complaints with the accompanying chunky applesauce. Bob ordered two servings of the “Homemade Ice Cream”. The molded dessert was so cold it was impossible to get more than a mere shaving at one time. While the chocolate bits added flavor there was no hint of creaminess. Our tab came to $40 + tip, too much for the quality and quantity.

Service was quirky. When we were seated the tables were set with silver pitchers of ice water. Halfway through the meal a waiter came by and picked up the pitcher – without a word and never to return. Why? This was not the case at any other table.

Much of the décor feels dated and well used. Near the door I couldn’t ignore the old movie screen and other items stowed behind a plant looking more discarded than stored. The open newspaper and glass of water on a bar table made me think the cook had probably been there only moments before. First impressions do make a difference.

When I Google “Black Forest Restaurant Nederland” I find their domain has expired. This seems indicative of the overall operation.

I do wish this Colorado tradition could live up to its potential. Soon!

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