La Loma Plaza

Taos, New Mexico

Pasturelands once separated the town of Taos and the defensive village of La Plazuela de San Antonio – The Little Plaza of Saint Anthony. Renamed in 1964, La Loma Plaza, a few short blocks from the center of Taos, is designated as a National Historic District. La Loma Plaza sits on a hill west of Taos Plaza.

Spanish families began constructing adobe homes in 1796. The homes connected to each other. Windows and doors faced the interior plaza forming a square fortification to project themselves and their animals from Ute and Comanche Indian raids.

Today the core of many La Loma structures date back to original construction, some even owned by direct descendants of the first settlers. Entering La Loma Plaza, a narrow lane off Valdez Lane passes the diminutive San Antonio de Padua Capilla, circa 1875.

A low stone wall encloses a small flagstone park. Trees shade benches and chairs – a welcoming spot to relax and note architectural details of the surrounding plaza.

Several homes on the quiet plaza are available for vacation rentals. The pink adobe with heart motif gate immediately caught my eye, Casa Pajaro. From Internet research I learn that the interior and much of the furniture has been painted my iconic Taos artist Jim Wagner. Known for bright colors and folksy style, Wagner captures a whimsical view of the Northern New Mexico character. Ever-present, chattering magpies populate many of Wagner’s works.

I would love to see the interior of Casa Pajaro, perhaps it will some day be our vacation rental location. Meanwhile, I have to appreciate historic La Loma Plaza from outside the adobe walls.

Restful Day

Taos, New Mexico

Are we getting old or wise? We did the unthinkable today with a slow paced day in our charming casita. Bob did some sketching, looking for inspiration for the coming week’s workshop. Nancy did some baking, writing and gazing into space.

Stephen Kilborn held an orientation session for workshop participants in the late afternoon at his gallery in Taos. The group shared a bit of the bubbly and an overview of the week ahead.

We join friends for a yearly tradition of dinner at Doc Martin’s in the Taos Inn. At least once during a Taos visit we need to have Doc’s Chile Relleno. The cheese stuffed Anaheim chile is coated in a blue corn beer batter, smothered with traditional green chile, topped with pepitas and goat cheese cream with salsa fresca on the side. I dug in so quickly I didn’t remember to take a photo of the attractive presentation. Maybe next time.

We spend a marvelous summer evening on the patio of the enclosed courtyard listening to Doug Montgomery piano CDs and planning for tomorrow.

Church Doors

Northern New Mexico

As we travel the roads of Northern New Mexico visiting some of the historic adobe churches I’ve started noticing the gateways and doors. Some are finely handcrafted and well maintained while others are simple and barely functional. They all open as welcoming arms and embrace worshipers. Enter here.

Shopping Saturday

Taos & Arroyo Seco, New Mexico

Taos Farmers Market is the summer Saturday Morning place to be. Dozens of vendors bring field fresh produce plus a myriad of products from fresh baked scones to hand dyed yarn.

One stroll past the booths and our arms are loaded with triple berry bread, a tall jar of honey, lemon blueberry scones for Sunday breakfast, Rocky Ford cantaloup and a dozen sunflowers worthy of a Van Gogh painting.

Today was Children’s day at the market with a Spanish marionette show, live animals including a couple of friendly alpacas, stilt walking, music and art projects.

After stowing our market purchases at the casita we stop at Country Furnishings of Taos. Seven rooms of an adobe house are packed with hand crafted painted furniture, distinctive home furnishings, jewelry, books and gift items – many by local artisans. We select a pillow by Georgia Page.

The village of Arroyo Seco always draws us for a visit. After all, it is the home of Taos Cow Ice Cream – the best. I feel a pout coming on because they are not currently serving my favorite Pinon Caramel.

Shopping continues at Claire Works. I’ve admired and purchased jewelry by Claire Haye for 15 years and always want to see her latest creations. Bob is now stocked up for the next few gifting occasions.

The most memorable part of our day was meeting the Mayordomo of the La Santisima Trinidad Church. Bob has frequently painted images of the adobe church. We were fascinated by the history and stories the Mayordomo shared. For the first time in 15 years we viewed the interior and appreciated how well taken care of it is. Historic photographs from before the 1990s restoration give a perspective on the work required. Spending time with this special keeper of the church was a definite blessing.

A water workout at the Taos Spa and relaxed Italian dinner at Trading Post Cafe in Ranchos de Taos completed a shopping Saturday.

High Road Churches

We spent the day visiting several of the old adobe churches along the High Road to Taos, perhaps an attempted antidote for Friday the 13th.

Photographers frequently focus on the buttresses at the rear of San Francisco de Asis in Ranchos de Taos. I’m fond of the detail framing the front doors, especially in morning sunlight. The parishioners lovingly maintain the National Historic Landmark church and garden. While interior pictures are strictly forbidden visitors are welcome to enter for prayers or to sit quietly and admire the carved corbels, front and side altars screens, retablos and statuary.

Just a few miles down SR 518 we find San Juan de Los Lagos. The small adobe chapel in Talpa has received a great deal of restoration in recent years. Bob has painted several versions of the Talpa chapel over the years. We’ve never had the fortune to see the interior, maybe sometime in the future.

Our third stop was Nuestra Señora de La Asuncion  - Placita located off SR 75 in Penasco. Colorful door panels and blooming sweet peas add a splash of color to the earthen structure. Local dogs noted our arrival but proved non-threatening.

Detouring a few miles off the High Road route we visited Picuris Pueblo. As with most of the pueblos, visitors should check in at Tribal Headquarters and obtain a camera permit for a modest fee. Originally constructed in 1776, San Lorenzo de Picuris collapsed in 1989 from water damage. Pueblo members rebuilt the church by hand over a period of several years. Today a crew was working on the grounds. We were invited into the sanctuary giving us the opportunity to note details of carved beams and sturdy chair backs in a traditional cloud pattern.

By the time we reached the village of Las Trampas gathering clouds brought the hope for rain but dulled the photographs. Fortunately we’ve visited the stately San Jose de Garcia Church many times and have been able to capture images under clear blue skies. The church is sometimes open but today was not one of those times. The Las Trampas church and village are favorite subjects for Bob’s watercolors.

Chimayo was our final church visits for the day. First we stopped at the Santo Nino Chapel dedicated in honor of children. I remember when this structure seemed more pigeon roost than holy, an extensive renovation has transformed the chapel which is now filled with colorful contemporary art, wood sculptures and hand-carved Spanish Colonial furniture.

El Santuario de Chimayo is sometimes referred to as the Lourdes of America. Pilgrims arrive seeking healing miracles from the sacred red dirt found in a little side room. Walls are covered with testimonies, letters and poems of thanks, crutches, photos, hand carved rosaries and mementos.

When we arrived at Chimayo today nearly a dozen polished police and sheriff’s cars lined the narrow road. Was there a funeral? We soon learned a bit of local culture. This is Espanola Fiesta weekend. By tradition a Torch Run on Friday begins with prayers and blessings at El Santuario and ends eight miles later at Sacred Heart Church in Espanola. The escort vehicles were waiting and Fiesta Royalty in gowns, crowns and sashes were in attendance.  ”If the runner doesn’t make it we have no fiesta,” we were told.

I can’t leave Chimayo without replenishing my supply of “Holy Chili #1″ from Carlos Medina. I add a dash to almost every main dish I prepare and Carlos is always an entertaining visit. We also made a luncheon pilgrimage to Rancho de Chimayo before completing our 120 mile loop trip through the mountains of Northern New Mexico. A perfect Friday the 13th.

Visit Art by Robert Yackel to view some of his paintings of New Mexico churches.

Dining Pilgrimage

Chimayo, New Mexico

Much like holy pilgrims to El Santuario de Chimayo diners pay repeat and reverent visits to a temple of Northern New Mexican cuisine – Ranchos de Chimayo Restaurante. Since 1965 loyal locals and visitors from around the world have journeyed to the century old adobe home for traditional regional dishes.

As always, we found the restaurant busy. Seating is in small rooms in the original home, a sun room and in summer, terraced patios – tables shaded by ancient cottonwoods and large umbrellas.

We relaxed with a fruity sangria, a bowl of fresh guacamole and crisp, salty chips while awaiting our entrees. I couldn’t resist an old favorite, Sopaipilla Relleno – a sopaipilla stuffed with shredded beef (chicken also available), beans and Spanish rice, topped with cheddar cheese, guacamole and a choice of red or green chile.

Bob opted for Combinacion Pequena – shredded beef taco, cheese enchilada, Spanish rice and beans. His enchilada came as “Christmas”, half red and half green chile. A basket of large puffed sopaipillas and honey accompanied the entrees.

Short of licking our plates we couldn’t have enjoy our choices any more. From previous visits we can highly recommend the flan; however this time we felt the need to pass on dessert.

In 2008 Rancho de Chimayo experienced a kitchen fire that closed the restaurant for 14 months. When they reopened patrons found the dining areas as they remembered; major changes were in a new kitchen and the addition of Tienda. The retail room is stocked with salsas, preserves, logo glasses, t-shirts and the popular Rancho de Chimayo Cookbook. They offer an assortment of creatively packaged gift sets, many can be ordered on their website. A miniature Red Flyer wagon filled with jars of salsa captured my attention.

Rancho de Chimayo is located on the High Road to Taos (Santa Fe County Road 98), 27 miles north of Santa Fe. The restaurant is open from 11:30 am to 9:00 pm, from May to October open 7 days a week, November thru April closed on Mondays.

Until this visit I didn’t realize the restaurant opens for breakfast on Saturday and Sunday, 8:30 – 10:30 am. I’ll remember that for our next Rancho de Chimayo pilgrimage.

Travels to Taos

Made the trek from Denver to Taos, New Mexico for a yearly sojourn. Instead of the usual shortest route across La Veta Pass then south through San Luis, CO and Questa, NM we decided to head to Cimarron, NM for lunch at the famous and infamous St. James Hotel.

For a trip down memory lane we paid a short visit to Philmont Scout Ranch outside of Cimarron. Scouts come from all over the United States and many foreign countries for high adventure and backpacking treks in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains of northern New Mexico.

After completing 10-day treks Scouts frequently throw their worn hiking boots over a Philmont entrance gate.

We follow US64 through scenic Cimarron Canyon to Eagles Nest and Angel Fire before crossing 9,101-foot Palo Flechado Pass and the final stretch into Taos. A light rain caused us to skip pictures and a return visit to the Vietnam Veterans Memorial State Park.

By the time we arrived in Taos their afternoon shower was over and the sun warmed the adobe walls of our rental casita. This is the fourth year we’ve made Casa de las Abuelas home base while Bob takes a painting workshop from Stephen Kilborn and we explore the region.

The bags are unpacked, a trip to the grocery store complete and a chilled margarita calls.