Author Archives: Nancy Yackel

Travel Log – May 25, 2012

1 Reply

Grosvenor Arch

I wouldn’t say Grosvenor Arch was on my bucket list but it’s certainly been on my Utah To Do list for many years. Photos of the double arch are frequently seen in articles, videos and guidebooks and it’s had a certain appeal for me. One reason probably is because it is in the backcountry, not near a highway viewpoint.

The arch stands 19 miles south of Cannonville, Utah, down Cottonwood Creek Road. The road is paved the first nine miles to Kodachrome Basin State Park, from there it’s 10 miles of rock and dirt. I enquired about road conditions at the Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument Visitor Center and was given very actuate details. In fair weather a high-clearance, two-wheel drive car would have no trouble. There is some washboard but not the entire length. The road dips in one location that usually holds standing water, with a choice of two crossings I was advised to take the one to the right which is less steep. One mile before the arch a forest service sign marks a left turn. At the parking area we find an information sign, pit toliet and paved walkway making it wheelchair accessible.

We were the only visitors all of the time we scrambled around taking photos from different angles. Grosvenor Arch was named after a former president of the National Geographic Society, Gilbert Grosvenor. It stands 152 feet tall with a 92-foot span. The remote setting adds to the drama, I was not disappointed and thought the 40 mile round-trip worth it. Check!

Smiles – May 25, 2012

Too Pooped To Pump

So says a sign hung on an old gas pump in Cannonville, Utah. It expresses my sentiments exactly after spending hours walking and taking pictures in 40+ mph winds at Bryce Canyon National Park. I may be too pooped to pump but not for a night of cowboying, off to a Western dinner and music show.

Travel Log – May 24, 2012

Scenery All the Way

Torrey to Escalante

Utah’s route 12 makes a swooping arc through the south central portion of the state. The scenic highway crosses Bryce Canyon National Park, miles of Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument and is anchored on near the northern terminus by Capital Reef National Park. The National Scenic Byways Program named State Route 12 Utah’s first All-American Road.

Today we traveled from the small town of Torrey, west of Capital Reef NP, to Escalante. Just 65 miles but an ever changing array of scenery and lots of opportunities for activities. After days of barren canyons the forested slopes of Boulder Mountain refresh as we climb the mountain’s eastern shoulder. Aspen leaves shimmer in their spring greenery.

Note to Self: This would be a stunning autumn drive when the massive aspen groves turn the mountain to gold.

We stopped at Anasazi State Park in Boulder for a peak at the Fremont and Ancestral Puebloan cultures that called this home from 700 to 1300 A.D. Excavated remains demonstrate their evolution from pit houses to stone walled structures.

Lunch at Boulder Mesa Restaurant was served by a friendly owner with discussion of recipes for the excellent pasta salad and refreshing cajun blueberry pie.

From Boulder we enter the Canyons of the Escalante portion of the 1.7 million acre Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. Popular hikes follow Cave Creek into the canyons to the oasis of either Lower or Upper Cave Creek Falls.

To grasp the extensive options found in the national monument we make the GSENM Visitor Center in Escalante a last stop for the day before checking into the Escalante B&B and salad and pizza at Escalante Outfitters.

Travel Log – Day 6 – May 23, 2012

To Parts Unknown – Cathedral Valley

Capital Reef National Park

Today Bob wanted to go to Cathedral Valley in the far north section of Capital Reef National Park. The park service suggests one of two dirt/sandy roads in from the east. One is listed as a high-center, 4-wheel drive and the other as high-center 2-wheel – for either road they suggest you plan on four hours each way. An eight hour trek? Is it worth it?

After consulting our multitude of maps it looks to us that we can go in from the west side with only about half the distance on dirt road. Utah 24 takes us from Torrey through irrigated had fields and ranges to Loa where we turn onto Utah 72. A Fishlake National Forest sign marks an easterly turn – Cathedral Valley 13 m. The first 6+ miles are paved, ascending into an aspen and pine forest. As much as we admire the canyon country forest green is a lovely respite.

A grassy glen dotted with bright dandelions and shaded by tall aspen at Riley Springs Trailhead looks like a perfect picnic spot. After days of feeling near heat stroke from record setting high temps the need for a light jacket is welcome. Even after the pavement ends the road isn’t especially rough until we enter the west side of the Capital Reef National Park. Almost immediately there’s a couple of extremely rocky sections before the road starts a steep decent into the valley floor. Gearing down saves any brake issues. Although there are places where the road becomes too narrow to pass they are few and traffic is not an issue. We meet only two cars in ten miles.

Vast Cathedral Valley spreads below with sandstone monoliths standing tall and imperial bathed in sunlight. At some point along our journey across the valley we decide to take the 2-wheel, high clearance road out instead of retracing our route. Near Gypsum Sinkhole we pause to contemplate the black "filling" between layers of red up-thrush dikes, learning later the black is obsidian cutting through red sedimentary strata.

While the geography is constantly changing the road is a continual series of curves, lurchy sandy bottoms and small wash crossings. Stretches of washboard feels like we driving on corrugated steel – truly teeth rattling, nerve shattering. Even at low, low speeds the vibration is almost uncontrollable. The roadbed is a continuous kaleidoscope of colors – grey, green, vermillion, white, red, rust, smoke. Wind accompanies us for miles, stirring up as much dust in front as behind. The last of the 24 miles seem endless even though it’s taken less than two hours. Finally we intersect with the highway.

Are we glad we made the trip? Yes. Do we need to do it again? Not soon. Been there, done that, have the photos, memories and a car that desperately needs a car wash.

From Where?

Other Worldly

As we’re traveling through the canyon country of Utah one of my most frequently used descriptions of the landscape is “other worldly”. Today I found proof at the Capital Reef National Park Visitor Center.

Isn’t it appropriate that the entry portal was California?

Travel Log – Day 5 – Torrey, Utah

Day of Surprises

While traveling from Moab to Torrey, Utah we encountered several pleasant surprises.

Somewhere I’d seen a brief reference to a river museum in Green River. We stopped at the John Wesley Powell River History Museum expecting to have a quick look/see. We left 1 1/2 hours later. Our introduction came via a 20 minute film, Journey into the Great Unknown, which chronicles Powell’s first voyage from Green River, Wyoming through the Grand Canyon. The extremely well done film with surround sound and presented in a comfortable theater was worth the price of admission. In addition to river related exhibits there’s an art gallery featuring the work of Utah artists, dinoaurs including one that was found just miles from the museum, the River Runners hall of Fame and museum store. Appropriately, the museum sits on the banks of Green River.

While exploring the Fruita Historic District in Capital Reef National Park we found that in the heritage homestead Gifford House they sold fresh-baked pies and scones. An unusual feature in a National Park. At a shaded picnic table we eagerly dug into a mixed berry crumb-top pie for two. Excellent!

Without knowing anything about the restaurant we chose Cafe Diablo for dinner. The imaginative menu was a surprise but the real surprises came with the extraordinary artistic presentations and inspired culinary creations. Attentive and friendly service added to the enjoyment. We learned that Cafe Diablo has an international reputation and following. Who would have guessed you could find something like this in a town with a population of 182 in the middle of Utah? Surprise!

A day of pleasant surprises!

Travel Log – Day 4 – Moab, Utah

Fantastic Formations

Today was a continual slideshow of fantastic formations – arches, buttes, canyons, bluffs, spires – the list goes on and on. The eyes and mind almost go on overload there’s so much more than one can imagine.

After a bit of shopping for supplies and a UV protection shirt we make Arches National Park our first stop to capture pictures of east facing formations. We’ve spent two evening photographing at sunset but some sites are much better morning shots. A stop at the visitor center also seems in order. Displays relate both the geological and human history of the Arches area. Attractive, roomy and well organized, the book store offers a wide variety of titles.

The Island in the Sky section of Canyonlands National Park was our next destination. Utah 313 traverses 25 miles of high desert from US191 north of Moab to the park boundaries. Near the entrance we’re surprised to see a new visitor center since our last visit when the ranger facilities were in a trailer. We take advantage of a shaded picnic table for a bit of lunch.

From Island in the Sky we look down onto the White Rim and deeper into the rugged canyons of the Green and Colorado Rivers, ribbons of the rivers sometimes visible as they loop through the almost other-worldly geography.

Short walks and photograph fill the afternoon until we both determine the sun and heat has zapped our energies. We miss a visit to Mesa Arch and to Dead Horse Point State Park, from earlier visits we know they are worthy of our attention but the effort isn’t there today.

Dinner at Moab Brewery – We split a garden salad, a Jack Daniel Burger with slaw, Smoked Sausage Grill (Italian, brat and cajun spice) with sauerkraut, garlic red potatoes, sautéed fresh veggies served with their Brewery Stout Mustard. Bob skipped a beer in favor of their Moab brewed root beer. On the way out the door the case of house-made gelato was too tempting to pass up – I highly recommend the caramel candy bar, the best gelato I’ve ever tasted. A soothing end to a fantastic day!

Ten Years Younger

Magic Shoes

After two knee surgeries, a year and a half walking with a cane, a fantastic physical therapist, countless hours of aqua arthritis classes, exercises, leg presses, pedaling the stationary bike today I saw and felt a breakthrough. Two years ago, even one year ago I wouldn’t have believed I could ever again skip across the slick rock of canyon country, walk more than two miles in pursuit of memorable pictures, be confident of maintaining my balance on the uneven trails – simply be free and able to roam.

To be sure some of the credit goes to my new Keen trail walkers and the sure-footedness they provide. And I’ll share credit with a great surgeon, therapist and fitness instructors. I know that my determination to do the work required for rehab and strengthening was an important key to success. I’m going to lump it all together as “Magic Shoes”.

After todays adventures I feel ten years younger, hopeful, blessed and thankful.

Barbecue in Parachute, Colorado

Vance Johnson’s Outlaw Ribbs

Parachute, Colorado

If you cheered for the Denver Broncos twenty years ago you remember the most flamboyant of the Three Amigos – Vance Johnson. Wide receiver Johnson played from 1985-1995. A few years ago a friend told us about a good barbecue restaurant on Colorado’s Western Slope in the small town of Parachute. Since the friend was a Kansas City native we figured he had a credible recommendation. Since then we’ve stopped several times for lunch at VJ’s Outlaw Ribbs.

I don’t think we would have ever paid attention to the unassuming building right along Interstate 70 but now we know to turn off at Exit 75. VJ’s opens for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Today’s breakfast special was a jumbo smoked sausage, 2 eggs, home fries and toast. Besides the typical breakfast fare selections include Toby’s Burrito, a Denver Omelet, grits and bone-in ham slice.

The lunch special was pure southern – catfish platter with blackened peas, rice, collard greens and cornbread. I note most of the locals were indulging in the special. I bypass the catfish for a shredded smoked pork sandwich with their basic barbecue sauce and a side of beans. Bob opted for the pulled pork on bun – Southern style (hot and spicy) topped with coleslaw. There is also a tangy barbecue sauce.

If you’re with a group order “The Trough” which VJ’s promises to feed four or more. There’s baby back ribs, St. Louis ribs, smoked sausage, pork, brisket, whole chicken, 6 sides and garlic toast. Pull up a chair and dig in.

Fresh cut prime rib is on this weekend’s special board plus live 70s music on the patio. Every time we’ve stopped at VJ’s locals greatly outnumber the tourists. There seems to be a loyal following of gas and oil field workers, ranchers with their brand on their license plate and those just shooting’ the breeze. I’m happy we didn’t just breeze on by.

On the Road Again – May 18, 2012

Across Colorado

Well supplied with bottled water, sunscreen, cameras and maps we head west for a couple of weeks exploring Southern Utah and Northern Arizona. Six national parks and at least as many National Monuments and State Parks are on the itinerary. We’re expecting lots of outdoor time and photography amid the ingredible natural landscapes found on the Colorado Plateau.

Following I-70 we past through towns worthy of attention and exploration on another day: Idaho Springs, Georgetown, Silver Plume, Frisco, Vail, Eagle, No Name (yes, that’s the official name), Glenwood Springs, New Castle, Silt, Rifle, Palisade. Off ramps and side roads call us to follow to other destinations: Evergreen, Empire, Guanilla Pass, Leadville, Steamboat Springs, Aspen, Grand Mesa. Visiting each of these sites would make an excellent summer adventure. We could choose to tour the Argo Mine, hike up Herman’s Gulch or to Hanging Lake, boat on Lake Dillon, backpack in the Gore-Eagle Widerness Area, raft the Eagle River, flyfish on the Colorado, soak at Glenwood Hot Springs or go underground at Glenwood Caverns. Loveland, Cooper Mountain and Vail ski areas are morphing from snow covered to green slopes for mountain biking. Active summertime in the Rockies is almost here.

Under cloudy skies we stick to the road with only a lunch stop in Parachute at VJs Outlaw Ribbs. VJ is Vance Johnson, a popular Denver Bronco wide receiver between 1985-1995. The shredded smoked pork sandwich satisfies the travelers hunger.

Reaching Grand Junction by mid-afternoon we make our first stop my favorite shoe store in the entire state, and the oldest one – Benjes. The family owned store celebrated 100 years in 2011. There’s nothing old or dated about the footwear Bruce Benje selects for his shop. Today I select sturdy Keen trail sandals expecting to put them to good use in Utah.