Category Archives: Utah

Travel Log – May 24, 2012

Scenery All the Way

Torrey to Escalante

Utah’s route 12 makes a swooping arc through the south central portion of the state. The scenic highway crosses Bryce Canyon National Park, miles of Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument and is anchored on near the northern terminus by Capital Reef National Park. The National Scenic Byways Program named State Route 12 Utah’s first All-American Road.

Today we traveled from the small town of Torrey, west of Capital Reef NP, to Escalante. Just 65 miles but an ever changing array of scenery and lots of opportunities for activities. After days of barren canyons the forested slopes of Boulder Mountain refresh as we climb the mountain’s eastern shoulder. Aspen leaves shimmer in their spring greenery.

Note to Self: This would be a stunning autumn drive when the massive aspen groves turn the mountain to gold.

We stopped at Anasazi State Park in Boulder for a peak at the Fremont and Ancestral Puebloan cultures that called this home from 700 to 1300 A.D. Excavated remains demonstrate their evolution from pit houses to stone walled structures.

Lunch at Boulder Mesa Restaurant was served by a friendly owner with discussion of recipes for the excellent pasta salad and refreshing cajun blueberry pie.

From Boulder we enter the Canyons of the Escalante portion of the 1.7 million acre Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. Popular hikes follow Cave Creek into the canyons to the oasis of either Lower or Upper Cave Creek Falls.

To grasp the extensive options found in the national monument we make the GSENM Visitor Center in Escalante a last stop for the day before checking into the Escalante B&B and salad and pizza at Escalante Outfitters.

Travel Log – Day 6 – May 23, 2012

To Parts Unknown – Cathedral Valley

Capital Reef National Park

Today Bob wanted to go to Cathedral Valley in the far north section of Capital Reef National Park. The park service suggests one of two dirt/sandy roads in from the east. One is listed as a high-center, 4-wheel drive and the other as high-center 2-wheel – for either road they suggest you plan on four hours each way. An eight hour trek? Is it worth it?

After consulting our multitude of maps it looks to us that we can go in from the west side with only about half the distance on dirt road. Utah 24 takes us from Torrey through irrigated had fields and ranges to Loa where we turn onto Utah 72. A Fishlake National Forest sign marks an easterly turn – Cathedral Valley 13 m. The first 6+ miles are paved, ascending into an aspen and pine forest. As much as we admire the canyon country forest green is a lovely respite.

A grassy glen dotted with bright dandelions and shaded by tall aspen at Riley Springs Trailhead looks like a perfect picnic spot. After days of feeling near heat stroke from record setting high temps the need for a light jacket is welcome. Even after the pavement ends the road isn’t especially rough until we enter the west side of the Capital Reef National Park. Almost immediately there’s a couple of extremely rocky sections before the road starts a steep decent into the valley floor. Gearing down saves any brake issues. Although there are places where the road becomes too narrow to pass they are few and traffic is not an issue. We meet only two cars in ten miles.

Vast Cathedral Valley spreads below with sandstone monoliths standing tall and imperial bathed in sunlight. At some point along our journey across the valley we decide to take the 2-wheel, high clearance road out instead of retracing our route. Near Gypsum Sinkhole we pause to contemplate the black "filling" between layers of red up-thrush dikes, learning later the black is obsidian cutting through red sedimentary strata.

While the geography is constantly changing the road is a continual series of curves, lurchy sandy bottoms and small wash crossings. Stretches of washboard feels like we driving on corrugated steel – truly teeth rattling, nerve shattering. Even at low, low speeds the vibration is almost uncontrollable. The roadbed is a continuous kaleidoscope of colors – grey, green, vermillion, white, red, rust, smoke. Wind accompanies us for miles, stirring up as much dust in front as behind. The last of the 24 miles seem endless even though it’s taken less than two hours. Finally we intersect with the highway.

Are we glad we made the trip? Yes. Do we need to do it again? Not soon. Been there, done that, have the photos, memories and a car that desperately needs a car wash.

From Where?

Other Worldly

As we’re traveling through the canyon country of Utah one of my most frequently used descriptions of the landscape is “other worldly”. Today I found proof at the Capital Reef National Park Visitor Center.

Isn’t it appropriate that the entry portal was California?

Travel Log – Day 5 – Torrey, Utah

Day of Surprises

While traveling from Moab to Torrey, Utah we encountered several pleasant surprises.

Somewhere I’d seen a brief reference to a river museum in Green River. We stopped at the John Wesley Powell River History Museum expecting to have a quick look/see. We left 1 1/2 hours later. Our introduction came via a 20 minute film, Journey into the Great Unknown, which chronicles Powell’s first voyage from Green River, Wyoming through the Grand Canyon. The extremely well done film with surround sound and presented in a comfortable theater was worth the price of admission. In addition to river related exhibits there’s an art gallery featuring the work of Utah artists, dinoaurs including one that was found just miles from the museum, the River Runners hall of Fame and museum store. Appropriately, the museum sits on the banks of Green River.

While exploring the Fruita Historic District in Capital Reef National Park we found that in the heritage homestead Gifford House they sold fresh-baked pies and scones. An unusual feature in a National Park. At a shaded picnic table we eagerly dug into a mixed berry crumb-top pie for two. Excellent!

Without knowing anything about the restaurant we chose Cafe Diablo for dinner. The imaginative menu was a surprise but the real surprises came with the extraordinary artistic presentations and inspired culinary creations. Attentive and friendly service added to the enjoyment. We learned that Cafe Diablo has an international reputation and following. Who would have guessed you could find something like this in a town with a population of 182 in the middle of Utah? Surprise!

A day of pleasant surprises!

Travel Log – Day 4 – Moab, Utah

Fantastic Formations

Today was a continual slideshow of fantastic formations – arches, buttes, canyons, bluffs, spires – the list goes on and on. The eyes and mind almost go on overload there’s so much more than one can imagine.

After a bit of shopping for supplies and a UV protection shirt we make Arches National Park our first stop to capture pictures of east facing formations. We’ve spent two evening photographing at sunset but some sites are much better morning shots. A stop at the visitor center also seems in order. Displays relate both the geological and human history of the Arches area. Attractive, roomy and well organized, the book store offers a wide variety of titles.

The Island in the Sky section of Canyonlands National Park was our next destination. Utah 313 traverses 25 miles of high desert from US191 north of Moab to the park boundaries. Near the entrance we’re surprised to see a new visitor center since our last visit when the ranger facilities were in a trailer. We take advantage of a shaded picnic table for a bit of lunch.

From Island in the Sky we look down onto the White Rim and deeper into the rugged canyons of the Green and Colorado Rivers, ribbons of the rivers sometimes visible as they loop through the almost other-worldly geography.

Short walks and photograph fill the afternoon until we both determine the sun and heat has zapped our energies. We miss a visit to Mesa Arch and to Dead Horse Point State Park, from earlier visits we know they are worthy of our attention but the effort isn’t there today.

Dinner at Moab Brewery – We split a garden salad, a Jack Daniel Burger with slaw, Smoked Sausage Grill (Italian, brat and cajun spice) with sauerkraut, garlic red potatoes, sautéed fresh veggies served with their Brewery Stout Mustard. Bob skipped a beer in favor of their Moab brewed root beer. On the way out the door the case of house-made gelato was too tempting to pass up – I highly recommend the caramel candy bar, the best gelato I’ve ever tasted. A soothing end to a fantastic day!