Tag Archives: Travel

Santa Cruz Chili & Spice Company – Tumacacori, Arizona

Spice It Up

santa-cruz-signI’ve read about the quality chili and spices from Santa Cruz Chili & Spice Company for years but had never had the opportunity to stop and shop. Today we made it; and, we weren’t the only ones. A constant flow of shoppers arrived and departed with sacks of  chili pastes, salsas, herbs and spices from around the world.

In business for 60 years, Santa Cruz is famous for the distinctive flavors of red chili peppers grown in the region made into a handy, easy-to-use chili paste.  A round table in the ranch museum room is set up with chips and a dozen of the Santa Cruz products are available for tasting – paste to jam. Try them, you may find something new. Bob did – jalapeno orange marmalade.

santa-cruz-tastingWant a fajita spice mix, taco meat seasoning, habenero powder? You’ll find them and dozens more. In the market for paprika? There’s Peruvian, Hungarian, Hungarian half-hot, smoked, sweet, and Spanish. Who knew? Sample jars let you sprinkle a taste in your hand to try before you buy. Chili powders are rated for degree of hotness.

In addition to their own products there’s an extensive collection of regional flavors from other companies – hot sauces, salsas, jellies, syrups, mustards, etc.

santa-cruz-shoppersNot sure how best to use some of the spices? Purchase a copy of the Santa Cruz Chili & Spice Co. Cookbook, a collection of favorite recipes from traditional Mexican dishes to new and healthy ways to cook with their products. The book is spiced with family stories of life in the Southwest and history of the company. This is a perfect place for souvenir shopping for cooks on your list; a bonus is the extremely fair and affordable prices. Gourmets will have a real spicy spree.

When You Go: Santa Cruz Chili & Spice Company is located on the I-19 frontage road, exit 29, just south of the Tumacacori National Monument. Three miles south of  Tubac. Open Monday – Saturday 8am – 5pm, closed Sundays.

Fairbank Historic Townsite – Cochise County, Arizona

1880s Southwest Transportation Hub

fairbank-old-buildingPassengers stepping off  the train in 1880 Fairbank found themselves in a thriving transportation hub. Three railroad lines passed through the town, one connected with the Mexican port of Guaymas. From Fairbank passengers boarded the stage for the final travel leg into the mining town of Tombstone. An elegant hotel and restaurant, serving such delicacies as oysters on the half shell, provided creature comforts in the wilds of Southeastern Arizona.

Ores from Tombstone’s silver mines were brought to mills along the San Pedro River. Supplies and silver flowed through a flourishing Fairbank. The last bit of commerce and population hung on until 1974. Today wind whistles through the tinned roofed buildings. Bird song and woodpecker tappings replace the shrill sounds of an approaching steam engine.

fairbank-schoolhouseThe Bureau of Land Management acquired the old Spanish Land Grant that Fairbank was built upon in 1987.  The townsite is a gateway to the San Pedro Riparian National Conservaiton Area. Hiking trails lead to the Fairbank Cemetery, mill sites and along the river – an important habitat for both resident anfairbank-booksd migratory birds.

The stone Fairbank School has been restored and houses a small history museum, replicated 1930s classroom and bookstore/gift shop. The book selection is extremely well chosen with regional history and nature emphasis, travel and hiking guides and children’s titles. The Schoolhouse is staffed Friday through Sunday.

When You Go: Fairbank Townsite is located on State Route 82 halfway between Whetstone and Tombstone, on the east side of the San Pedro River. Visit the Land of Legends, the Cochise County visitors website for more information on Fairbank and other adventures.

Tumacacori National Historical Park – Tumacacori, Arizona

Stepping Back 200 Years

tnhp-vc-doorAs we step through the heavy wooden doors into the adobe visitor center at Tumacacori National Historical Park we begin the journey back two centuries. Jesuits arrived from Mexico to establish missions among the Piman Indians to bring Christianity to the New World. Father Kino established San Cayetano De Tumacacori in 1691.

After the Jesuits’ expulsion from New Spain in 1767-68 Franciscans were assigned to the missions. By 1800 they begun building a large church – one they hoped would rival San Xavier del Bac. The church was never complete as originally designed and by 1848 the last residents left Tumacacori.tnhp-church-in-arch

The National Historical Park encompasses remains of the church, cemetery, mortuary chapel, lime kiln and convento. A reconstructed O’odham house, patio garden, museum (currently closed for renovation) and book store are also part of the site. Mass is periodically held in the church and during our visit this afternoon the Santa Cruz Singers were arriving for a concert.

tnhp-through-the-window2Photographers find a plethora of interesting angles, framing and details. Today Dora Hernandez worked beneath a ramada making fresh flour tortillas. For a donation visitors topped their tortillas with beans, salsa and/or cheese and savored a bit of tradition. At a table in the courtyard an elder taught a young girl the art of cutting paper flowers.tnhp-tortillas

Hikers can follow the De Anza Trail from Tumacacori along the Santa Cruz River to Tubac.

While Tubac attracts a legion of tourists, Tumacacori calls me to stop along the journey and step back to an earlier time.

tnhp-cemetery

When You Go: Tumacacori National Historical Park is located 45 miles south of Tucson at exit 19 of I-19. Open 8am – 5pm daily except Thanksgiving Day and Christmas. There are picnic tables but no campground.

Traveling & Blogging

Reality Check

Visions of blogging danced in my head as we started this Southwest trip. After a week I have to face reality that I can’t keep up with blogging as fully as I want – if I want any sleep. For the rest of the trip I’ll add short posts with a few pictures each day with “more” info, details and visuals coming later. Follow along and please don’t forget to check back later.

Late February Events – Tucson, Arizona

Tucson Plays – Rodeo, Golf, Baseball

Late February, it’s that time of year when Tucson gets serious about playing. The tradition of La Fiesta de los Vaqueros celebrates its 84th year in 2009 with professional rodeo and the world’s longest non-motorized parade. Schools close for two days and some businesses close to participate in the parade. The rodeo parade even has a museum.

When the event started in 1925 the Arizona Daily Sun headlined, “Cowboys are asked not to shoot up the town.”Prizes at the first rodeo parade included a 750-pound block of ice, 100 pounds of potatoes and a “Big Cactus” ham, whatever that was.

The PGA tour stops in Tucson this week with the Accenture Match Play Championship. Unlike most of the tour tourneys Match Play pits player against player each day eliminating half the field – much like the NCAA Basketball March Madness. Spectators and media from around the world are abuzz this week with Tiger Woods returning to completion after knee surgery last June. Tiger won his match Wednesday but was eliminated on Thursday. After Friday’s play all eyes are on 19-year-old Rory McIlroy from Northern Ireland. Accenture excitement continues through the final rounds on Sunday.

Major League Baseball’s spring training games started this week. The Arizona Diamondbacks, Chicago White Sox and Colorado Rockies train in Tucson. A schedule of games with other Cactus League teams continue until the end of March.

Tucson weather this week couldn’t have been better – afternoon temperatures in the 80s and clear skies with just enough evening clouds for colorful sunsets. Play on!

 

 

Magpies Gourmet Pizza – Tucson, Arizona

Is It or Isn’t It

“Voted Tucson’s best pizza for 20 years in a row,” proclaims Magpies Gourmet Pizza. Some reviews cry foul, no way is Magpies best. Wanting a change of pace this evening we decide to see what we think.

We chose “The Magpie” made with a ricotta tomato sauce, mozzarella cheese, Magpie’s own sausage, pepperoni and fresh mushrooms. The 10″ small was the right size for us to share along with a side-order sized Greek salad – which was crisp and fresh.

We went to the Magpie’s on Oracle north of Ina Road. It appeared most of their business is delivery or takeout. Television noise filled the eat-in area; we decided on one of three outdoor tables. The evening temperature was perfect and pink sunset entertained as we waited. We were told it would take about 20 minutes – this stretched to 30 or 35.

Bob says he’d grade the pizza a B, better than average; I thought it was good but no where close to exceptional. I guess the verdict is still out, is it or isn’t it the best pizza in Tucson?

Singing Wind Bookshop – Benson, Arizona

Ring the Bell for Books

If you love books of any genre, listen up.

Directions:

  • singing-wind-mailboxFrom Interstate 10 in Benson, Arizona
  • Take Exit 304
  • Drive north 2.25 miles on Ocotillo Road
  • After the cattleguard turn right onto the dirt road – a Singing Wind Road sign and the distinctive mailbox marks the spot.
  • Pass through the green gate
  • Drive 1/2 mile to the ranch house
  • Wonder if you’re in the right place
  • Exit car
  • Read well-worn sign and ring the ranch bellsinging-wind-bell
  • Proceed to the front door
  • Ignore the barking dog – sounds fierce, actually the official greeter
  • Open door
  • Meet Winifred Bundy
  • Listen – and pay attention – to her detailed tour of the shelves
  • Browse and buy

I’m fairly certain our visit to Singing Wind Bookshop is the most unique book buying experience of my life. Following the sandy lane pass rusting ranch equipment we’re not at all sure we’re in the right place. Stopping in front of the ranch house we’re still leery. A barely readable sign says ring the bell and a note on the door says enter, the barking dog makes me not so sure. Bob’s hanging back in the car, having none of this.

winifred-bundyFinally getting up enough nerve to open the door I come face-to-face with Winifred Bundy. The first words out of her mouth are, “Let me give you a tour.” By tour she means a very detail explanation of how topics are arranged on the floor-to-ceiling shelves in three rooms. If you don’t pay attention you’ll miss her quips and puns. There may be a test later.

We’re on the second wall when three more customers arrive and introductions are made. I stick my head out the door and tell Bob he needs to come in – this is not to be missed. We start the tour again from the beginning. That’s okay with me because my eyes had already glazed over by the time we got to mythology. I’m not at all surprise when I later learn she has two master degrees in Library Science.

“Up above the door is finance, sometimes I think they should be in fiction,” Winifred deadpans. Turning a corner the commentary continues, “Here we have male fiction – not the US mail. There will be more puns.” Her tour is spiced with author tidbits and critiques, “Western Jewish history – very important.”

A staff member arrives to finish the tour, Win explains she has to get to Tucson for a funeral.

cowboy-reader3While one can find selections from art to zoology, books of the Southwest and Western Americana are specialties. The selection amazes. If you’ve listened to Win’s tour you’ll know where to browse for that special title you’ve been seeking. All books were new when they were put on the shelf – that may have been a long time ago. Meaning you might find some real bargains in older books. Singing Wind offers limited availability in some out-of-print materials. They’re willing to search for special requests and will take mail orders over the phone.

childrens-room1The children’s room with antique rocking chairs makes me wish there had been a place like this in my childhood.

Collectors and casual readers keep arriving. I can imagine spending most of a day among the books. The staff member says, “We have picnic tables out back, you can bring a sack lunch and spend the day.”

Singing Wind will celebrate its 35th anniversary in May 2009. Winifred Bundy has created a magical book place and is always ready to guide an interested reader through the world of the written word.

When You Go: Singing Wind Bookshop is open daily 9am – 5pm, including Sundays and most holidays. Cash and checks accepted for payment, no charge cards. To find Singing Wind just follow the directions.

Pete’s Restaurant – Belen, New Mexico

Real New Mexican Food

During an Internet search I found multiple references to Pete’s restaurant in Belen; reviewers recommending the real New Mexican cuisine. No Tex-Mex here.petes-exterior

Pete’s stands across the street from the historic Harvey House next to the busy Belen railyard.

Founded by Pete  Torres in 1949, the restaurant follows his philosophy sixty years later. Pete believed chile was basic to New Mexico. He valued authenticity – his recipes are followed closely using fresh ingredients, and consistency of what the his customers receive.

Having skipped lunch we’re eager to dig into the crunchy tortilla chips and spicy salsa – highly recommended by Bob. The chile relleno plate entices Bob and fulfills expectations with perfect crisp rellenos, rice, beans, dinner salad and sopapillas.

relleno-plate-at-petes

Pete's Chile Rellenos

The staff willingly met my request to make a substitution on the stuffed sopapilla entree. I wanted to try both the chicken and beef instead of two of the same. They came smothered with green chile and accompanied with a choice of rice or beans. Flavors were exactly what I’d looked forward to. The spiced ground beef impacts intense but well balanced flavors. I’m certain it would make a great taco. Just planning ahead to my next visit.

I evesdrop on a table of locals discussing the high quality of Pete’s burgers. No doubt they’re good but I’m sticking with traditional New Mexican.

Too full for dessert but interested in the pineapple cream pie we ordered one slice to go. The yummy bedtime snack makes us wonder why we’ve never before heard of pineapple cream pie.

We agree with Pete’s motto, “We’re not the best because we’re the oldest; we’re the oldest because we’re the best.”

When You Go: Pete’s Restaurant, 105 North 1st Street, Belen, NM, 505-864-4811.

Arizona Sunset – Cochise County

monday-sunset

A brilliant sunset greeted our arrival in Arizona this evening. We stayed at Whitewater Draw Wildlife Area watching thousands of sandhill cranes and snow geese settle in for the evening until the sun was nearly behind the mountains. A kaleidoscope of sunset hues kept us sighing with appreciation on our westward drive toward Tombstone. Welcome to  Arizona.

Las Vegas National Wildlife Refuge – New Mexico

Stopover

The National Wildlife Refuge east of Las Vegas, New Mexico hosts flocks, bevies and coveys each year. The lakes and fields between plains and mountains is a natural stopover on the Central Flyway.

las-vegas-nwr-signWe’re too early for spring migration, however several species winter at the refuge. From an observation deck overlooking Crane Lake we focus on the  white “island” across the lake – hundreds and hundreds of snow geese. Sandhill cranes stalk the far shoreline. Canada geese flap and strut near the lake’s edge. Numerous species of ducks bob directly in front of us. Unfortunately my knowledge of species stops at mallard and teal. I need our Sibley’s to identify all that I observe. Wind whipped and chilled we opt for viewing along the eight-mile auto loop passing ponds, lakes, marshes, grasslands and cottonwood groves.

mcalister-lake-lvnwrThe brochure says 20-50 eagles winter at this refuge but we see none on this visit. We do see a northern harrier hawk drift low over the dry gama grass, stalking its prey – probably a vole.

While stopped near Brown’s Marsh I spot movement in a brush thicket. I get the binoculars focused in time to see the head of what I’m assuming will be a coyote. The brain quickly processes this is not a coyote face looking back at me but a bobcat. Speaking with a ranger later in the day, from my description he confirms that is probably exactly what I saw.

When You Go : Las Vegas National Wildlife Refuge  is 5.5 miles from I-25, exit 345. The Gallinas Nature Trail, open weekdays only, requires a permit from the refuge office.