Category Archives: Colorado

Fall Color Update – Colorado

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Cottonwood Pass

Buena Vista to Crested Butte

September 18, 2009 – There’s a stretch along the east side of Cottonwood Pass that supports stands of mature aspen. We note trunk diameters as well as how tall these trees are compared to the ones seen on Kenosha Pass. The long white trunks would give photos a very different look if the weather weren’t so gray. The foliage above timberline is outstanding in rich fall color. Large patches of deep red appear to flow down gullies and drainages.

We place odds on getting rain this afternoon. A few drops sprinkle the windshield before the summit but almost  instantaneous with starting down the west side the temperature plummets to 45-degrees and corn snow pellets the car until we get below timberline. Aspen along the Taylor River are mostly turned, but those south of Crested Butte are just beginning the process. Soft, steady rain bathes “The Butte” this evening.

San Juan Scenic Skyway – Colorado

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Scenery, History and Recreation Galore

Along Colorado’s San Juan Scenic Skyway

 

Any season of the year, but especially in the fall, the San Juan Scenic Byway circling much of southwestern Colorado amazes visitors with natural beauty, remains of ancient civilizations, Western history and outdoor recreation. In four parts I’ll share an overview of the route first published in a suburban Denver lifestyle magazine, Buzz in the ‘burb.

View San Juan Scenic Skyway

Introduction

Like curly ribbon around a festively wrapped gift the San Juan Skyway circles spectacular southwestern Colorado. Plunging waterfalls, rumbling rivers, jagged mountain peaks, hot springs, deserted mining camps, rich western heritage, trendy resorts, and ancient cliff dwellings dot the map along the 236-mile loop designated an All American Road and Scenic Byway.

07-Waterfalls Weaving over five mountain passes, the paved two-lane route links two National Forests, a National Park, major communities and remote ghost towns. In theory one can drive the Skyway in six hours. While the windshield-framed vistas would still be stunning I can’t imagine making the drive non-stop, missing the many opportunities for exploration, recreation and a deep breathe of fresh alpine air.

Two or three days provides a more realistic time frame while the leisure traveler with a week to spare can easily fill the days and still leave with a to-do list for the next visit. Whether we complete the entire loop or drive just a segment we always vow to return – with more time.

A September visit promises the added attraction of golden aspen groves. The view of Mt. Sneffels from Dallas Divide is a classic Colorado autumn photograph.28-Aspen near Telluride

San Juan Scenic Skyway – Part 2

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Ouray – Durango

04-Animas Forks Heading south towards Silverton the San Juan Scenic Skyway dramatically clings to canyon walls of the Uncompahgre River. This is the white-knuckle portion of the drive for flatlanders and those unfamiliar with mountain driving. Tunnels, snow shed, waterfalls, rugged red peaks and rusty-orange mine tailings hold our interest as we wind our way to the top of Red Mountain Pass.

Silverton

One of the richest mining districts in the world around the turn of the 20th century, Silverton was known as a wild town, notorious 11- Silverton Arrivalfor gambling, drinking and the Blair Street red-light district. Today, excitement peaks with the arrival of the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad in a mighty puff of black smoke. Hundreds of passengers descend on shops, restaurants and bars for two hours of modern day carousing.

During mid-day when the town teems with train passengers, we head to the Old Hundred Mine for an underground tour considered one of the best in the state.15-Mine Tour

Everyone dons hard hats and yellow slickers before boarding the electric mine train. Journeying 1/3 mile into Galena Mountain the one-hour tour is guided by an experienced miner. While he demonstrates the use of jack-leg drills, mucking machines and slusher the reverberating sounds give a harsh reality to the quest for ore.

Durango

16-Molas Lake Progress southward to Durango is slowed for photographers wanting shots of Molas Lake, Engineer Mountain, Coal Bank Pass, and Durango Mountain Resort. Could it be time for another soak, this time at Trimble Hot Springs, six miles north of town? Surrounded by landscaped gardens and shady lawns the soaking pools invite total relaxation. Active youngsters and those seeking real exercise gravitate to the Olympic-sized swimming pool. Massage and spa treatments can extend the stay for an indulgent day in the shadow of red sandstone mesas.

Durango serves as commercial, educational and tourism hub for Southwestern Colorado and the entire Four Corners region. Rich in history yet vibrant with youthful energy, the city offers options for all. Kayaking, rafting, mountain biking, fishing, golf – outdoor recreation is a way of life.

20-Strater Hotel Dining choices demonstrate the community’s diversity. One evening we choose Bar D Chuckwagon with barbeque dinner and Western entertainment by the Bar D Wranglers. The next night we’re downtown on the quiet patio of Seasons Grill savoring Alaskan halibut with saffron aioli and risotto cake. After dinner shopping includes stops in outdoor outfitters and art galleries. And, who can resist the ragtime tunes and honky-tonk piano at the Diamond Belle Saloon in the Strater Hotel – distinctively Durango.

Heading south towards Silverton the highway dramatically clings to canyon walls of the Uncompahgre River. This is the white-knuckle portion of the drive for flatlanders and those unfamiliar with mountain driving. Tunnels, snow shed, waterfalls, rugged red peaks and rusty-orange mine tailings hold our interest as we wind our way to the top of Red Mountain Pass.

02-Red Mountain

  • This post is a portion of an article by Nancy Yackel first published in Buzz in the ‘burbs, a suburban Denver monthly.

San Juan Scenic Skyway – Part 1

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Ridgway – Ouray

Ridgway

Driving from Denver we usually join the San Juan Skyway at Ridgway on US550, 26 miles south of Montrose. The Ridgway Chamber of Commerce proclaims, “Fresh Air… Wrap Around Views!” In this case it’s not just hype. The surrounding country often serves as Hollywood backdrop and many local ranches are now owned by celebrities. The town successfully maintains its laid-back, friendly atmosphere – a place where we may find a horse tied-up outside the True Grit Café but can also buy a fine morning espresso at the local coffeehouse.

01-San Juan Autumn Ridgway State Park, north of town, offers camping, boating, fishing and even a sandy swim beach, somewhat a rarity in Colorado. South of town Orvis Hot Springs is the first we encounter along the route. Facilities at Orvis include indoor and outdoor pools, massage, lodging and camping. Be aware, soaking and other designated areas of the resort are clothing optional.

Ouray

Labeled the Switzerland of America, Ouray lies in a tiny valley ringed by 14,000-foot peaks. Settled after gold and silver deposits were discovered in 1875, the town reflects the wealth from those mines in its many ornate Victorian buildings. Restoration and preservation efforts have once again opened these architectural treasures as hotels, restaurants and bed and breakfasts.

 06-Jeep Road The year-round population of 800 swells in summer when visitors arrive to bask in the scenery and outdoor recreation. Perhaps, no where else in Colorado are we so enticed by 4-wheel jeep roads. Some of these steep, narrow “roads” were originally pack-mule trails to the mines. Tour and rental operators open the possibilities for everyone, even if they arrived in the family van. Engineer, Ophir, Black Bear, and Imogene Passes, Yankee Boy Basin, Last Dollar Road, Alpine Loop – destinations seem limitless.

Ouray Hot Springs Pool soaks away the aftershocks of a bone-jarring jeep tour or a day of alpine hiking or rock climbing. Over a million gallons of natural hot springs water at temperatures between 96 – 106 degrees soothes and relaxes.

  • This post is a portion of an article by Nancy Yackel first published in Buzz in the ‘burbs, a suburban Denver monthly.

San Juan Scenic Skyway – Part 3

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Durango – Telluride

Mancos25-Mancos Valley Stage Line

Heading west from Durango the Skyway follows US160 across high desert plains with the La Plata Mountains marching northward. A stop in Mancos for a ride on the Mancos Valley Stage Line harkens back to travel in the 1800s. Riding shotgun atop the horse-drawn stagecoach provides thrills but we’re happy to continue our trip in air-conditioned SUV comfort.

02 - Mesa Verde Sign Ten miles east of Cortez the road to Mesa Verde National Park turns south.

[Click here for a post on Mesa Verde National Park]

Cortez Indian Dancer Cortez

Cortez serves as a gateway to additional Native American and Ancient Puebloan cultural sites. Visits to the Cortez Cultural Center, a day-long tour at Ute Mountain Tribal Park, Notah Dineh Trading Company & Museum, Hovenweep National Monument, and the Anasazi Heritage Center keeps us busy for several days.

North to Telluride26-Lizard Head Pass

From Cortez the Skyway heads north, northeast on CO145. Soon we’re following the Dolores River back into the San Juan National Forest along the most remote section of the route. The unique spire of Lizard Head Peak appears to balance afternoon storm clouds as we cross Lizard Head Pass before descending into the narrow valley that is home to Telluride.

  • This post is a portion of an article by Nancy Yackel first published in Buzz in the ‘burbs, a suburban Denver monthly.

San Juan Scenic Skyway – Part 4

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Telluride – Ridgway

TellurideBarns Near Telluride

The one time boom town almost became a ghost town before its latest boom as a trendy resort and second home to celebrities. Spa treatments and fine dining or a hike to the brink of Bridal Veil Falls and a microbrew – we can do it all in Telluride. With a reputation as the Festival Capital of Colorado special events continue into autumn as aspens turn gold and cold nights precede the season’s first snowfall.Gondola View of Telluride

Vermillion cliffs cast shadows on the highway and the San Miguel River between Telluride and Placerville. The final segment of the Skyway loop heads back to Ridgway along CO62 with the not to be missed views of Mt. Sneffels. The peak was named after a fictional mountain in Jules Verne’s “Journey to the Center of the Earth.”

The San Juan Skyway doesn’t take us to the center of the earth but gives us an incredible journey through southwestern Colorado.

Mountains from Wilson Plateau

  • This post is a portion of an article by Nancy Yackel first published in Buzz in the ‘burbs, a suburban Denver monthly.

Colorado Fall Color – Denver Day Trips

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Take to the Hills for Fall Color

Yellow Aspen Twig Fall arrives early in the Colorado Rockies. Beginning in late August aspen begin their shimmering transformation to golden yellow. Many forecasters predict an early and short color season for 2009. Even residents who rarely travel beyond the Denver metropolitan area plan a fall foliage day trip or Sunday afternoon drive. Consider these routes as you grab the camera and take to the hills.

  • Peak to Peak Aspens Peak to Peak Highway from Blackhawk to Estes Park – This National Scenic Byway nearly parallels the Continental Divide for 55 miles between Blackhawk and Estes Park. Although it’s a continuous route various segments hold different Colorado State Highway designations 119, 72 and 7 as it travels northward through Rollinsville, Nederland, Ward and Allenspark. Some years the segment between Nederland and Ward offers especially stunning aspen color.
  • Old Fall River Road in Rocky Mountain National Park – A rewarding road less traveled in the park, the one-way (westbound)Old Fall River Road dirt road climbs from Horseshoe Park, west of the RMNP Fall River Entrance Station, to Fall River Pass, 11,796-feet above sea level. Along the ascent the terrain changes from mountain meadow to montane and subalpine forests before reaching the wind-swept alpine world above timberline. Nine of the 11 miles are car passable (except extremely low clearance vehicles) dirt surface – posted speed limit, 15mph. Tight switchback turns make the route  Elk - Head Shot unsuitable for RVs or trailers. In addition to changing aspen you’re almost guaranteed to see grazing elk along the way. A $1 Old Fall River Road guidebook is available at park visitor centers. The road terminates when it intersects with Trail Ridge Road near the Alpine Visitor Center. Turn right to descend the west side of the park to Grand Lake or turn left to follow Trail Ridge Road back to Estes Park.
  • I-70 from Empire to the Eisenhower/Johnson Tunnels – Large groves of aspen paint the mountain slopes along this Interstate corridor. Watch for bighorn sheep on the rocky slopes above Georgetown Lake and Silver Plume. Fill the day with exploring the shops and historic sites in GeorgetGeorgetown - Reflectedown or  Silver Plume, take a hike up Herman’s Gulch or ride the narrow gauge Georgetown Loop Railroad. Sample wines at Canyon Wind Cellars or lunch and tea in the Silver Plume Tea Room. Make it an overnight with reservations for dinner and lodging at the Peck House in Empire – the oldest hotel extant in the state. Caution: Eastbound I-70 frequently becomes stop-and-go, bumper-to-bumper on Sunday afternoons during color season. Plan your trip accordingly, consider stopping at a local restaurant for dinner or you may have lots of time to view the same grove of aspen.
Road Closing: The Guanella Pass Road, a frequent destination for leave peepers, between Georgetown and US285 closed August 21, 2009. Heavy summer rains created unsafe conditions due to rock instability. For current information, call 303-569-3251, press “2” for Guanella Pass.
  • Squaw Pass – Bergen Park to Idaho Springs – I don’t find a lot written about Squaw Pass but I think it’s a great Sunday afternoon drive, especially in the fall or on a clear winter day. From the Evergreen Parkway, CO74, head west on Squaw Pass Road, CO103. The road is paved albeit with a few rough and narrow spots along the 18-mile route to Echo Lake. The Squaw Pass Summit at 9,807’  is about half-way to the popular lakEcho Lakee.  A left turn in summer takes gasping visitors to the top of 14,264’ Mount Evans – the country’s highest paved road. CDOT closed the top four miles of the Mt. Evans Highway for the season on September 3, the lower portion remains open as of this posting. Check their website for updates. CO103 continues approximately eight miles down the Chicago Creek Road to Idaho Springs and I-70. Pick a sunny day to fully enjoy the sweeping views of mountain ranges and quaking aspen.

Check Back Soon for Additional Suggestions

  • Kenosha Pass
  • Gold Belt Tour – Florissant to Cripple Creek

Far View Lodge – Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado

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Lodging in Mesa Verde National Park

Far View Main Lodge Far View Lodge provides the only accommodations within Mesa Verde National Park. The mesa top motor lodge-style units are open from mid-April to mid-October and are located near the Far View Visitor Center. The 150 rooms feature private balconies with vistas of more than 100 miles.

01 - Far View Lodge

 

Although I had visited the park several times in different seasons of the year it had always been as a day visitor. On my most recent sojourn I decided to stay overnight in the park while Bob was on a San Juan backpack trip. The experience was so positive we returned for additional nights after he came off the trail. Kiva rooms feature custom handcrafted furniture, pillow-top mattresses, and refrigerators. Rooms do not have televisions.

 Wild Horses As evening falls, the majority of visitors wind back down the mesa to nearby communities. Quiet settles over the park and wildlife make twilight appearances. Deer, rabbits and ground squirrels browse just below our balcony. One evening, a herd of wild horses stop to scavenge supper in the scrubs before galloping across the range.Doorways

Guests enjoy dinner in the lodge’s Metate Room. Menu selections reflect Southwestern cuisine influences. We were delightedly surprised with the quality of food and service – a full moon rising over the  scenic panorama capped the delectable experience.

The mesa top location makes early morning and sunset photos more convenient. During a quiet evening walk around Far View Ruins the Ancestral Puebloans seem not so far away.

Mesa Verde National Park – Colorado

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Mesa Verde Mystique

 

04 - Square Tower House Late afternoon sunlight glints off Square Tower House; the ancient stonework gleams in bronze hued patinas. Tucked beneath Chaplin Mesa in an eroded alcove, walls of the deserted pueblo stand straight and tall centuries after construction. Questions immediately spring to mind: who were these people, why did they leave, where did they go?

Mesa Verde National Park brings the 21st-century visitor face-to-face with the rich remnants of a civilization that thrived a millennium ago in Southwestern Colorado. For more than 100 years archaeologists have excavated, classified and analyzed the treasure trove left behind. As scientific research continues an intriguing story unfolds.

01- Mesa Verde At one time, these people were referred to as Anasazi – a Navajo word sometimes translated as “the ancient enemies” – and were thought to have disappeared after they left the Four Corners region. Evidence shows they traveled south into Arizona and New Mexico. Today, 24 Pueblo Nations regard Mesa Verde as their ancestral home. Respecting their modern descendents, we now refer to them as Ancestral Puebloans.

Mesa Verde visitors face a modern day mystique – how best to experience the park. The choices can be confusing especially for first time tourists. The most famous of the cliff dwellings are found on and around Chapin Mesa, along with park headquarters, museum, visitor center, lodging, restaurants, bookstore and gift shops. Most tourists want to explore at least one of the alcove sites. Only Spruce Tree House and Step House on Wetherill Mesa are available for self-guided tours. Visits to popular Cliff Palace, Balcony House and Long House are by ranger-guided to18 - Long Houseurs only – modestly priced tickets required.

  Far View Visitor Center, 15 miles from the park entrance, is the best orientation stop from mid-April to mid-October. Staff will help plan visits, select the most appropriate tours, and sell the tickets. While all tours involve walking over irregular surfaces and climbing ladders, a Balcony House visit also requires a hands and knees crawl through an 18-inch wide tunnel. Wise choices advised – no one wants to leave Grandma stuck in a tight place or deal with a six-year-old petrified to ascend a 32-foot ladder – unless they’re writing a Chevy Chase “Vacation” sequel.

In response to the inquiry, “How long will it take a person to visit the ruins?” S.E. Osborn answered in 1891, “…it all depends on a person’s curiosity and endurance…” The same holds true today and so much more has been discovered since 1891.

11 - Peek Inside Many visitors opt to join an interpretive guided tour offered through the park concessionaire. The full- and half-day excursions travel via motor coach with a National Park Service trained guide. Visits to sites along Chapin Mesa graphically display the centuries of development from pit houses to the early mesa top pueblo dwellings and finally the cliff dwelling communities. Photographers appreciate the stops at key photo locations. (Personal note – I’m normally a do-it-yourself traveler but truly enjoyed sitting back and listening on this tour. Our guide was a Navajo gentleman from the Four Corners region. The stories and information he shared totally enriched our Mesa Verde experience. Sometimes breaking the mold rewards beyond anticipation.)

West of Chapin Mesa stands Wetherill Mesa – named after the ranching family that first drew national attention to the cliff dwellings as they excavated Cliff Palace. Wetherill contains the second largest concentration of ruins in the park and is open for visitation from Memorial Day Weekend to Labor Day. The 12-mile, 45-minute drive from Far View Visitor Center leaves the crowds behind and promises some of the park’s most scenic vistas. The narrow, winding road is slow but this is time well spent. Smart visitors plan to spend at least a half-day on Wetherill and go prepared with water and snacks or picnic lunch.

05 - T Doorway Free tram service transports Wetherill Mesa visitors from the parking area to trails and overlooks. The 90-minute Long House tour is considered the most comprehensive ranger-guided visit. Ranger Pat Westover relates, “This is our favorite location, we only get assigned out here about once a week. There’s just as much to see and all the people are over on Chapin.”

Standing below Long House with a sweeping view of the complex, once home to approximately 150 people, Westover sets the scene. “They were living here in the 1200s, about 100 years of occupation. They had no metal, no horses, no wheel, no written language. By 1300 they were gone, Mesa Verde was abandoned.”

12 - Family at Cliff Palace This site contains 21 kivas, circular chambers used for sacred ceremonies; but, also a place for men to weave and tell stories. Check dams and farming terraces offer strong agricultural evidence. They were farmers; but, also traders. Artifacts of cotton, turquoise, Pacific Ocean shells and Macaw feathers show they had contacts south into Mexico and westward.

The question remains, why did they leave? It was a period of drought; however, they had survived other droughts. Were the soils and timber depleted? Did they face pressure from other groups? Archeologists today believe all of these reasons and possibly others affected the departure. Did the Gods tell them to leave? We will never know all the answers – the whys. That’s part of the mystique.

  • This article by Nancy Yackel was previously published in Buzz in the ‘burbs, a suburban Denver lifestyle magazine.

Colorado Scenic Railroads

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Ride the Rails for Colorado Fall Color

Aspen1 Colorado celebrates autumn with golden hillsides of aspen, scrub oaks in hues from crimson to burnt umber  – and, the occasional dusting of snow on the high peaks. No season is more colorful for a scenic train ride – narrow or standard gauge. Many of the railroads offer special events during the fall. All aboard!

  • Cripple Creek and Victor Narrow Gauge Railroad – A steam powered narrow gauge train makes a 4-mile, 45-minute trip into the historic mining districts of Cripple Creek and Victor. This is an excellent choice for families with young children or those with limited time. Operates daily until mid-October, 10am-5pm, train runs every 40 minutes. Lots of aspens along the route make this a great fall foliage feature. Read more…
  • Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad – This popular excursion weaves along the Colorado/New Mexico border. Special fall events include the Fall Foliage Photo Train on Sept. 27, Galloping Goose Fall Colors Train Oct. 1-4, Chama Moonlight Dinner Train Oct. 2, Fall Foliage Sunday Express Oct. 4 and Chama Steam Fall Classic Oct 24.
  • DSNGR in Silverton Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad – Passengers step back more than a century when they board this historic train that has operated continuously since 1882. The route through Colorado’s San Juan Mountains offers unparalleled scenery. Autumn specials include the 20th Annual Fall Photo Special & Night Photo Shoot Sept. 26-27, Cowboy Poet Train/Durango Cowboy Gathering Oct. 2, Durango Heritage Train Oct. 10, and Peanuts The Great Pumpkin Patch Express Oct. 10, 11, 17, 18, 24, 25 & 31. Reservations a must!
  • Train_Locomotive with Light On Georgetown Loop Railroad – Georgetown and Silver Plume are only two miles apart via highway but the elevation gain of 60o feet required amazing railroad engineering. The steep climb includes many twists, turns and trestles. Trains operate daily through Oct. 12, weekends after that date. Pumpkin Festival events held the first two weekends of October. Read more…
  • Leadville, Colorado and Southern Railroad – Leadville claims title to the highest incorporated town in North America (10,152’) and thrived on mining and the railroads. Rail buffs relive that golden age along the Leadville, Colorado and Southern tracks. Trains run daily through Oct. 4 with a Fall Photo Special Sept. 19. Read more…
  • Manitou Cog Railway Manitou and Pikes Peak Railway – Scales Pikes Peak on the world’s highest cog railroad. The three-hour round trip to the 14,110’ summit qualifies as the most relaxed climb up the well-known mountain. Swiss diesel locomotives ratchet bright red cars filled with tourists up slopes with grades as high as 25%. Morning and afternoon trips through Oct. 25, thereafter check the website for scheduled departures.
  • Rio Grande Scenic Railway – Departing from Alamosa and LaVeta the Rio Grande Scenic Railway gives passengers multiple trip opMMM - Rio Grandetions (distance, time and price) including a visit to Great Sand Dunes National Park. The autumn schedule includes Rails and Ales Oktoberfest Oct. 3, Fiesta Train Oct. 10 and Pumpkin Patch Ride Oct. 24 and 31. A combined rail adventure and Michael Martin Murphey’s Mountain Music Show occurs September 19.
  • Royal Gorge Route – Travels along the banks of the Arkansas River and beneath the worlds highest suspension bridge, more than 1,000-ft. above the gorge. Passengers can select seating in coach or vista dome cars, both with access to an open air car for outstanding views and photos. The Royal Gorge Route offers Colorado’s only rolling gourmet dinner service. Oktoberfest Lunch special trains run Sept. 18-20, Sept 25-27, Oct. 2-4. Read more…

Also consider:

  • Amtrak – Passenger service between Chicago and the West Coast traverses the Colorado Rockies west of Denver. The route through the Moffat Tunnel, Grand County and along the Colorado River offers superb scenery. Trips from Denver to Glenwood Springs  or Grand Junction offer getaways without driving busy I-70. Nancy’s Caveat – One shouldn’t have a tight schedule when traveling via Amtrak, delays can and do occur – especially east bound trains.
  • Tiny Town – In the foothills just off US285, Tiny Town attracts the pre-school set to the oldest kid-sized village and railroad in the United States. The miniature railroad, powered by coal-fired locomotives, loops through the village of more than 100 buildings and along the hillsides of Turkey Creek Canyon. After riding the train, investigate the 1/6-scale structures handcrafted by volunteers; be sure to peek into windows and skylights. A playground and picnic area encourages families to linger. Open weekends, 10am-5pm, during September.